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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. But, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest restaurant earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.